Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

Author Topic: RJM Performance AFP Clutch Bracket System  (Read 2991 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


  • Club Admin
  • 4th Gear
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 1919
  • I LOVE ZDayZ!
    • View Profile
    • Email
RJM Performance AFP Clutch Bracket System
« on: January 21, 2012, 05:22:02 PM »

This is one of the best Vendors I have delt with & the best mod for the money. RJM Performance sells a AFP Clutch bracket system. This I purchased & installed on my Z. I love it. It was inexpensive(maybe to cheep, I hope he is making enough per unit), fast shipping, wonderful install guide, & exceptional customer service. The quality of this product is top notch.
Check them out at
Here is a few of my pics.

New Kit installed

Quote from RJM Performance:
To clarify a few points on these brackets here is what they "Adjust"

The main feature of the kits is the AFP Slider. It directly adjusts the fulcrum point of the pedal arm, changing the amount of leverage it has over the master cylinder.
As you know if you grab a longer handled ratchet like a torque wrench you can apply a huge force at the bolt with very little force at the end of the handle.

Same principle applies here. Shorten the fulcrum and it increases the leverage the pedal has to push the MasterCylinder which in turn actuates the clutch diaphragm.
This same principle makes the window of engagement wider by reducing the total travel of the master cylinder while maintaining the same travel of the pedal. This makes the clutch pedal feel less sensitive or touchy and makes the car much easier to drive smoothly.

The clutch pedal getting stiffer/softer is a side effect of widening or shortening the engagement window. Not the actual purpose of the Mod. These two things however are inevitably linked to pedal leverage.

With the stock pedal setup the engagement window feels about as wide as paper is thick. It's nearly impossible to smoothly control the clutch between the edge of the friction point and fully locked. You need control and finesse for awesome launches and nice smooth 1-2 shifts without the jerk that you get with the stock setup. That jerk is because the stock clutch setup grabs abruptly right past the friction point and in stock form you can't control it or only manage to do so sometimes. You can learn to live with it but everyone says these cars are harder to drive because the engagement window is so SHORT compared to other vehicles.

Widening the engagement window and giving the driver more foot control makes every single aspect of driving the 6MT easier. From stop&go traffic, hard launches, those formerly rough 1-2's.

Next the Fully locked point is still at the top of the pedal. There is no way to have a hydraulic clutch setup that doesn't act that way. You can lower the pedal but it's still fully engaged when it's at the top of its stroke. Disengagement for fast shifts starts right at the top same as always so no slow shifting required, in fact I can power shift it at 6k 1st thru 4th barking the tires on every shift with no issues.

What does change is the engagement window getting wider, so the friction point moves lower WHILE the fully locked position stays at the top.
This lowers the friction point closer to floor WITHOUT simply lowering the pedal and reducing the overall travel.

The main brackets and the adjustable upper mount are all only there to support the movement of the fulcrum point and to keep the clutch rod level to the master cylinder while moving the fulcrum up and down on the pedal arm. Otherwise if they were not changing the fulcrum would severely mess with the angle of the clutch rod with no way to straighten it out.

To my knowledge there is no factory vehicle or other pedal kits that allow the physical fulcrum of the pedal to be modified by simply unlocking the slider and moving it up and down which COMPLETELY changes the characteristics of how these cars drive. North American Patents are Pending.

Hope that helps clear up the mechanical theory behind it as much as possible.

As a side note I came down sick with the flu last month while my wife and I were out of town so I asked her to drive the G home for me. Now she’s driven stick for years and I used to let her drive my WhippleCharged 07’ Mustang GT/CS with a McLeod TwinDisk all the time without a second thought... she could handle 500rwhp & the twin disk no problem. The bone stock G on the other hand I rarely ever let her drive it as she was Horribly jerky and Rough! the handful of times a year she tried. Now fast forward to last month... she got in adjusted her seat and drove the G like a pro for about 60Miles home and she hadn’t driven it more then 10miles in the past year. I was impressed and so was she! Enough said

« Last Edit: March 11, 2012, 09:55:18 PM by ◄Ashley►, Reason: changed title »
2004 Nissan 350Z, Kinetix SSV , Injen short-ram, Titek C.F. duct, Bilstein PSS-10 Coilovers, Hotchkis anti-sway bars, Power Grid endlinks, Evo350 A-arms, Akabono BBK with DBA 2 Piece front rotors, MotorDyne Exhaust, Osiris EMS, Enkei PF01 wheels wrapped in Bridgestone Potenza RE-11s and much more


  • Club Admin
  • 5th Gear
  • *
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 3176
  • ಠ_ಠ
    • View Profile
    • NFSPMotorsports
    • Email
Re: RJM Performance AFP Clutch Bracket System
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2012, 09:55:53 PM »

I'm moving this to product reviews, since this "vendor" only produces one product anyway.